High-quality natural textiles like wool, cashmere, and silk are the foundations of every luxury garment. However, is it necessary to use primary virgin wool for every new wool product, or can recycled wool also meet high quality standards?
This question, among others, was addressed by research at the Leeds Institute of Textiles & Colour (LITAC), University of Leeds. The aim was to determine whether mechanical recycling of post-consumer wool fabrics in a closed-loop process could sufficiently preserve fiber length for the production of new high-quality wool textiles.
Virgin wool represents only 1% of global fiber consumption, and approximately 6% of wool fabrics are recycled so far. Closed-loop mechanical wool recycling, along with appropriate consumer care of the resulting wool fabrics, can significantly extend the active lifespan of wool fibers and reduce environmental impacts. The closed-loop refers to the production of new wool fabrics from recycled material obtained through mechanical recycling of used fabrics, supplemented by recycled wool that results as waste during the production of new wool products.
For new wool textiles made from recycled materials, it is crucial to retain the correct fiber length and strong tensile strength of the fiber. These two parameters are essential for maintaining the economic value of recycled fibers. Thanks to the experiment, a new recyclability index has now been introduced, which allows for estimates of the long-term mechanical recyclability of wool and cashmere fibers.
LITAC’s research confirmed that wool products have the potential for at least two active life cycles, meaning at least 20–30 years.
This is also one of the main reasons why all LIBERAL LARK coats are tailor-made from innovative, high-quality 100% wool, resistant to water and wind, and without any chemicals or plastics.
The good news for the luxury segment is that in the case of wool products, it is possible to reliably transition to circular economy principles without losing strict quality standards.
It is important to emphasize that no microplastics are produced during the mechanical recycling of wool, as is the case with synthetic textiles. Up to 35% of microplastics are generated through the wearing, washing, or mechanical recycling of synthetic fibers.
To strengthen the trust of the supply chain and consumers in the quality of recycled wool, The Woolmark Company offers its Woolmark Recycled Wool certification. New fabrics made from recycled wool material and virgin wool undergo the same tests during certification to ensure the same properties of the final materials.
