Some may be surprised to learn that synthetic textiles account for 35% of microplastic generation – not only due to wear during use but primarily through washing. For context, other major sources of microplastics include tires (28%) and urban dust (24%). Even road markings contribute 7%.
The textile industry and clothing brands are gradually recognizing this issue and beginning to address new legislative requirements aimed at eliminating microplastics, extending product lifespan, and, most importantly, ensuring full recyclability of textiles. In the coming years, a mandatory share of recycled content in synthetic textiles will also become crucial. For example, a minimum recycled content requirement for all plastic packaging is already established in the newly adopted Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation.
Experts in the textile industry rightly argue that if synthetic fibers are to be durable and long-lasting under new regulations, they must be made from the highest-quality materials. However, mechanically recycled material does not meet this standard, as polymers degrade with each processing cycle. For instance, PET bottles can undergo a maximum of seven mechanical recycling cycles, and the same applies to polyester. This means that a new textile made from mechanically recycled material will never match the quality and durability of one made from virgin fossil-based raw materials. Additionally, mechanical recycling generates a significant amount of microplastics.
The solution for the textile industry is to switch to purely natural recyclable materials, if the character of the product allows it. This is the path we have chosen at LIBERAL LARK. If changing the production material is not an option, then the only choice is molecular, or chemical, recycling.
Chemical recycling is the only process that can meet all key requirements: maximizing recyclability, minimizing microplastic generation, and maintaining premium textile quality. Post-consumer textiles are broken down into molecules during chemical recycling, and a new polymer is then produced from them, which matches the high quality of virgin fossil-based materials.
The first of the three types of chemical recycling is depolymerization, which can break down single-material textiles such as polyester or polyamide. The other two methods, pyrolysis and gasification, can process mixed textiles but are not suitable for polyester. The key difference between depolymerization and these other methods lies in energy consumption and polymer yield. Depolymerization is preferred because it requires far less energy than pyrolysis and gasification. Moreover, it achieves a yield of around 90% recycled polymer from post-consumer textiles or plastic packaging waste, which is significantly more than pyrolysis or gasification. These two methods also generate undesirable fuel byproducts.
These drawbacks of pyrolysis and gasification have slowed the establishment of legislative frameworks needed to fully develop investments in chemical recycling technologies. The European Commission is currently working on crucial legislative measures. A key issue is defining the methodology for calculating the recycled content (from both mechanical and chemical recycling) in plastic beverage bottles, which will also impact how recycled content is calculated for synthetic textiles and other plastics, such as those used in the automotive industry.
Another major legislative milestone is defining the point at which waste processing transitions from waste status to recycling status, known as End of Waste (EoW). Currently, EoW is proposed only for mechanical recycling. Although it may seem minor, EoW is a critical criterion for determining whether textile recycling is truly feasible. Once EoW is determined, experts in the textile, packaging, plastics, and waste management industries will be able to assess whether investing in pyrolysis or gasification is economically viable while still meeting legally mandated recycling targets for plastics and textiles.
Chemical recycling was a major topic at the Texworld Apparel Sourcing trade fair in Paris this February, where it was widely discussed at expert conferences. Textile manufacturers and particularly fashion brands showed strong interest in chemical recycling and its practical implementation. They clearly recognize that chemical recycling is currently the only solution that allows them to comply with environmental regulations while continuing to produce high-quality products from premium materials.
Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, February 2025
Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris – February 2025